DAY12: NABHIDHANG TO LIPULEKH PASS TO TAKLAKOT
WE shall divide this journey in two parts
Nabhidhang to Lipulekh pass
Lipulekh To Taklakot
Approximate elevation from Nabhidhang till Taklakot
Nabhidhang to Lipulekh pass
Nabhidhang: 4324 mtrs
Lipulekh Pass: 5334 mtrs
Distance: 9kms
Time taken: 5 hrs
Route profile from Nabhidhang to Lipulekh
To start at 0230 hours WE had to get up latest by 0100 hrs and yatries managed somehow after getting only a few hours of sleep. Today would be a test of there stamina there will power and there ability to cope with unknown challenges thrown towards them by nature.
Apart from it being total darkness, it was raining and it was freezing too. Luckily it was not windy but still the cold was bone chilling. Yatries covered under 6 layers of clothing’s and was dying to move out. Dying to move out only because walking would have got some warmth in them and there limbs would not be as numb as they were now.
After the morning cup of tea and some cornflakes with bourn vita the group started to move. Ones who were on foot, like US, were asked to go ahead. Luckily the rain had calmed down to only a drizzle but it was still cold. Slowly as WE moved ahead in torch lights WE started to get a bit warmed up, but the exposed parts, like Our nose, started to have frost formed on them. Making matters worse was the terrain that was full of loose rocks and gravel, also the rain drops falling on the path and making the route very slippery.
Slowly but steadily the march continued in the dark. Though the ITBP has put up lamp posts on the path but they are few and far between. Also due to the fog/clouds the light from the lamp was not that strong. So basically yatries could see some light far ahead and that’s how they knew that they have to reach there. Sometimes a lamp would be out of order and the next lamp would be around the corner at a height and to reach that lamp they would miss the curve and end up taking a steep ascent. The going was tough but the best part I felt climbing in the dark was that they could not see much around and only see the immediate distance so they were making short term goals instead of looking far ahead and getting disheartened by the terrain, the distance and the ascent.
After about an hour or so WE were told to stop inside a broken hut and wait for the group to collect. This stopping was more of a burden than a boon. Actually yatries were losing momentum and re-starting would have been even more difficult, but at least it was not raining inside. It took about an hour for the group to collect and the journey started again. Everyone kept everyone’s spirits high by cracking some jokes or chanting bhajans or doing some weird stuff. Well this did help to a certain extent
Slowly the morning light appeared and now WE could actually notice where yatries were going. The path was really bad and was looking even more treacherous with so many water crossing, slippery boulders and barren surroundings. WE could see where WE were going but the cold and the rain still persisted. After about another hours walk yatries stopped again for the group to collect. This stop actually killed everyone’s spirit because they had to stop in the open. Since it was open and at a height of 16000+ and the day had started to break in the wind had picked up too, the O2 levels were anyways less and yatries were feeling fatigued due to the ascent. The group huddled together to get some warmth from each other and to save each other from the wind.
We started the walk again and soon we were almost at the top. Again yatries were told to wait. Actually the crossing at Lipulekh is a finely tuned event and it has to coincide with the batch that has completed its Parikrama in Tibet and is returning back to India. So till this batch has not entered India side our batch cannot enter into Tibet side. A few ITBP men go ahead to the pass and signal us from top once they see the Tibet side batch coming to India and that’s when we start our final ascent at Lipulekh.
Once WE were at Lipulekh WE again had to wait for the yatris of the other batch to cross over. Then wait again till the Chinese authorities checked our passports and let us in to their side. All this took another hour. This was the most horrible hour of journey. The wind had picked up a lot at the pass, it was blowing thru my clothes and numbing me, the rain drops had started to freeze on my clothes, WE could not feel Our nose and yatries dare not sit to rest as the Chinese may think they were sick and deport them back to India.
Anyway, finally OUR name was announced and they saw Our passport and let US in. But for US.
Atleast we were in China now!!!
Lipulekh Pass to Taklakot
Lipulekh Pass: 5334 mtrs
Taklakot : 3863 mtrs
Distance from Lipulekh to Taklakot: 19 kms
Time taken: 2 hours by bus
Route profile from Lipulekh to Taklakot
WE had left India behind and were in a foreign territory. Walking into a different country was an interesting experience. WE felt like some crusader from the past climbing hills and mountains and high passes, braving winds and storms to go visiting another country. WE had also left ITBP behind and from henceforth WE were to be handled by the Tibetan guides appointed by the Chinese Govt.
Luckily for the yatris, the Chinese have made a road almost till Lipulekh Pass. WE just had to descend 1km down and there were jeeps were waiting for us. This descent of 1 km made a lot of difference in the altitude too and WE were getting our energy back, plus luckily this side it wasn’t even raining. The jeeps took us 4 km down and then WE had to transfer to a big bus that would take US to Taklakot.
The road till Taklakot is a gravel road, but pretty smooth. It’s just about 15 kms from here till the town but due to the descend and hilly terrain it takes about 1.5 hours to reach the town. Also WE had to adjust Our clocks to China time and China time is +2.30 hrs so by the time WE reached Taklakot it was 1230hrs (CST).
WE were taken to the Chinese Immigration, where Our passports were submitted and yatries were checked for swine flu and there hand baggage was scanned. After completing all the formalities yatries were taken to our hotel and rooms were allocated.
Taklakot accommodation is the most comfortable accommodation of the trip. Only 2 people are kept in a room and the room has attached toilets with running hot water facility. Also Electricity is available throughout the day. So everyone got down to having a wash and also washing the dirty clothes. In fact the whole group had so many dirty clothes to wash that there was no line available to dry these many clothes. But luckily at Taklakot the sun was bright and the air was pretty dry so the clothes were drying very fast.
The rest of the day was spent lazily sleeping or going out and exploring the market or just having regular chit chat with the other yatris. After dinner, everyone went off to their rooms and slept. It had been a long day indeed.
Little did WE know that tomorrow’s rest day at Taklakot will turn out to be even a longer day than today!!!
Pics from Day 12
Waiting in a broken hut for the group to collect
The group slowly collecting in the drizzle
We could finally see where we were walking as the morning set in
The group huddles close together at a break point
Everyone trying desperately hard to keep themselves warm
Final ascend to Lipulekh
This is Lipuleh- waiting to cross over
Chinese authorities checking the passports and letting us cross
Finally in the bus and going towards Taklakot
At Taklakot Immigration
It was bright and sunny at Taklakot
A panoramic view of Taklakot City Hall and the surrounding mountains
End of Day 12
WE shall divide this journey in two parts
Nabhidhang to Lipulekh pass
Lipulekh To Taklakot
Approximate elevation from Nabhidhang till Taklakot
Nabhidhang to Lipulekh pass
Nabhidhang: 4324 mtrs
Lipulekh Pass: 5334 mtrs
Distance: 9kms
Time taken: 5 hrs
Route profile from Nabhidhang to Lipulekh
To start at 0230 hours WE had to get up latest by 0100 hrs and yatries managed somehow after getting only a few hours of sleep. Today would be a test of there stamina there will power and there ability to cope with unknown challenges thrown towards them by nature.
Apart from it being total darkness, it was raining and it was freezing too. Luckily it was not windy but still the cold was bone chilling. Yatries covered under 6 layers of clothing’s and was dying to move out. Dying to move out only because walking would have got some warmth in them and there limbs would not be as numb as they were now.
After the morning cup of tea and some cornflakes with bourn vita the group started to move. Ones who were on foot, like US, were asked to go ahead. Luckily the rain had calmed down to only a drizzle but it was still cold. Slowly as WE moved ahead in torch lights WE started to get a bit warmed up, but the exposed parts, like Our nose, started to have frost formed on them. Making matters worse was the terrain that was full of loose rocks and gravel, also the rain drops falling on the path and making the route very slippery.
Slowly but steadily the march continued in the dark. Though the ITBP has put up lamp posts on the path but they are few and far between. Also due to the fog/clouds the light from the lamp was not that strong. So basically yatries could see some light far ahead and that’s how they knew that they have to reach there. Sometimes a lamp would be out of order and the next lamp would be around the corner at a height and to reach that lamp they would miss the curve and end up taking a steep ascent. The going was tough but the best part I felt climbing in the dark was that they could not see much around and only see the immediate distance so they were making short term goals instead of looking far ahead and getting disheartened by the terrain, the distance and the ascent.
After about an hour or so WE were told to stop inside a broken hut and wait for the group to collect. This stopping was more of a burden than a boon. Actually yatries were losing momentum and re-starting would have been even more difficult, but at least it was not raining inside. It took about an hour for the group to collect and the journey started again. Everyone kept everyone’s spirits high by cracking some jokes or chanting bhajans or doing some weird stuff. Well this did help to a certain extent
Slowly the morning light appeared and now WE could actually notice where yatries were going. The path was really bad and was looking even more treacherous with so many water crossing, slippery boulders and barren surroundings. WE could see where WE were going but the cold and the rain still persisted. After about another hours walk yatries stopped again for the group to collect. This stop actually killed everyone’s spirit because they had to stop in the open. Since it was open and at a height of 16000+ and the day had started to break in the wind had picked up too, the O2 levels were anyways less and yatries were feeling fatigued due to the ascent. The group huddled together to get some warmth from each other and to save each other from the wind.
We started the walk again and soon we were almost at the top. Again yatries were told to wait. Actually the crossing at Lipulekh is a finely tuned event and it has to coincide with the batch that has completed its Parikrama in Tibet and is returning back to India. So till this batch has not entered India side our batch cannot enter into Tibet side. A few ITBP men go ahead to the pass and signal us from top once they see the Tibet side batch coming to India and that’s when we start our final ascent at Lipulekh.
Once WE were at Lipulekh WE again had to wait for the yatris of the other batch to cross over. Then wait again till the Chinese authorities checked our passports and let us in to their side. All this took another hour. This was the most horrible hour of journey. The wind had picked up a lot at the pass, it was blowing thru my clothes and numbing me, the rain drops had started to freeze on my clothes, WE could not feel Our nose and yatries dare not sit to rest as the Chinese may think they were sick and deport them back to India.
Anyway, finally OUR name was announced and they saw Our passport and let US in. But for US.
Atleast we were in China now!!!
Lipulekh Pass to Taklakot
Lipulekh Pass: 5334 mtrs
Taklakot : 3863 mtrs
Distance from Lipulekh to Taklakot: 19 kms
Time taken: 2 hours by bus
Route profile from Lipulekh to Taklakot
WE had left India behind and were in a foreign territory. Walking into a different country was an interesting experience. WE felt like some crusader from the past climbing hills and mountains and high passes, braving winds and storms to go visiting another country. WE had also left ITBP behind and from henceforth WE were to be handled by the Tibetan guides appointed by the Chinese Govt.
Luckily for the yatris, the Chinese have made a road almost till Lipulekh Pass. WE just had to descend 1km down and there were jeeps were waiting for us. This descent of 1 km made a lot of difference in the altitude too and WE were getting our energy back, plus luckily this side it wasn’t even raining. The jeeps took us 4 km down and then WE had to transfer to a big bus that would take US to Taklakot.
The road till Taklakot is a gravel road, but pretty smooth. It’s just about 15 kms from here till the town but due to the descend and hilly terrain it takes about 1.5 hours to reach the town. Also WE had to adjust Our clocks to China time and China time is +2.30 hrs so by the time WE reached Taklakot it was 1230hrs (CST).
WE were taken to the Chinese Immigration, where Our passports were submitted and yatries were checked for swine flu and there hand baggage was scanned. After completing all the formalities yatries were taken to our hotel and rooms were allocated.
Taklakot accommodation is the most comfortable accommodation of the trip. Only 2 people are kept in a room and the room has attached toilets with running hot water facility. Also Electricity is available throughout the day. So everyone got down to having a wash and also washing the dirty clothes. In fact the whole group had so many dirty clothes to wash that there was no line available to dry these many clothes. But luckily at Taklakot the sun was bright and the air was pretty dry so the clothes were drying very fast.
The rest of the day was spent lazily sleeping or going out and exploring the market or just having regular chit chat with the other yatris. After dinner, everyone went off to their rooms and slept. It had been a long day indeed.
Little did WE know that tomorrow’s rest day at Taklakot will turn out to be even a longer day than today!!!
Pics from Day 12
Waiting in a broken hut for the group to collect
The group slowly collecting in the drizzle
We could finally see where we were walking as the morning set in
The group huddles close together at a break point
Everyone trying desperately hard to keep themselves warm
Final ascend to Lipulekh
This is Lipuleh- waiting to cross over
Chinese authorities checking the passports and letting us cross
Finally in the bus and going towards Taklakot
At Taklakot Immigration
It was bright and sunny at Taklakot
A panoramic view of Taklakot City Hall and the surrounding mountains
End of Day 12
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